Learning how to put spur straps on western spurs is one of those tasks that sounds easy until you're sitting in the tack room with a pair of stiff leather straps and metal studs that just won't want to cooperate. It's a bit like a rite of passage for every rider. You get that brand-new set of leather straps—maybe they're tooled, maybe they've got fancy silver buckles—and you realize that getting them onto the metal spurs requires a bit more thumb strength than you expected.
Honestly, it's better to figure this out in the barn rather than five minutes before a show or a trail ride. If you've ever tried to force a tiny leather hole over a metal button while your hands are cold, you know exactly why a little preparation goes a long way. Let's break down how to get this done without losing your mind or ruining your leather.
Getting the Orientation Right
Before you even touch the leather, look at your spurs. Most western spurs have two "buttons" or studs on the ends of the shank. These are the anchor points for your straps.
The first thing you need to figure out is which spur is which. While many spurs are symmetrical, the way you attach the straps determines which one goes on your left foot and which goes on your right. A golden rule in the western world is that the buckles always face the outside. This isn't just for looks; it's a safety thing. If the buckles were on the inside, they'd rub against your horse, snag on your cinch, or even get caught on each other while you're walking.
So, grab your straps and lay them out. The side with the buckle is the "outer" side. When you're done, that buckle should be sitting on the outside of your ankle.
Preparing Stiff Leather
If you're working with brand-new leather straps, they're going to be stiff. Really stiff. Trying to shove a thick, dry piece of leather over a metal spur button can be a nightmare.
To make your life easier, take a second to flex the leather around the holes. You can use your fingers to wiggle the leather and soften the area around the slit. Some people like to use a tiny bit of leather conditioner or even a drop of water to make the leather more pliable.
If the holes are exceptionally tight, you can take a flathead screwdriver or a needle-nose pliers and gently stretch the hole a tiny bit. Just don't go overboard—you don't want the hole to become so loose that the strap pops off while you're riding. That's a great way to lose a spur in the middle of a field.
Attaching the Straps Step-by-Step
Now that your leather is prepped and you know which side is which, it's time for the actual assembly.
Start with the Outside Button
Take the end of the strap that has the buckle and find the hole. You're going to push this hole over the button on the outside of the spur. This is usually the harder part because the leather near the buckle is often thicker.
Hold the spur firmly in one hand and use your thumb to press the leather onto the button. You might need to twist and push at the same time. Once the edge of the button clears the leather, pull the strap through until it seats firmly around the neck of the button.
The Inside Connection
Now, take the other end of the strap and bring it around to the inside button of the spur. This part of the strap is usually just a flat piece of leather with several holes for adjustment. Choose the hole that seems roughly right for the size of your boot, though you can always change this later.
Push this hole onto the inside button. Since this part of the leather is usually thinner than the buckle end, it should go on a bit easier. Again, make sure it's fully seated. If it feels like it's barely hanging on, the leather might be too thick, or the hole might need a tiny bit of stretching.
Repeat for the Second Spur
Do the exact same thing for the other side, just making sure you've mirrored the setup. Remember: buckles on the outside! If you end up with both buckles on the right side of your feet, you've accidentally made two right-footed spurs. It happens to the best of us, but it's annoying to have to undo your work and start over.
Finding the Sweet Spot on Your Boot
Once the straps are on the spurs, it's time to put them on your boots. This is where you'll do your final adjustments. Slide the spur onto the heel of your boot. The "arms" of the spur (the branch) should rest on the spur rest of your boot—that little leather ledge just above the heel.
Adjusting the Tension
Buckle the strap over the bridge of your foot. You want it snug, but not "cutting off circulation" tight. If the spur is flopping around and hitting the back of your heel, the strap is too loose. If the spur is pulled up so high that it's sitting on your ankle bone, it's too tight.
Ideally, the spur should stay level or slightly tilted down, depending on your riding style. Most ranch riders prefer a slightly lower fit, while some performance riders like them a bit more snug and stationary. If you find that you're between holes on the strap, you can use a leather punch to add a new hole right where you need it.
Pro Tips for Maintenance
Now that you've successfully figured out how to put spur straps on western spurs, you probably don't want to do it again anytime soon. To keep everything in good shape, keep an eye on the leather near those buttons.
Over time, the leather can dry out and crack, especially if it gets wet and then dries quickly. Every few months, give your straps a quick wipe-down with some saddle soap and a bit of conditioner. This keeps the leather supple and prevents the holes from tearing.
Also, check the "swing" of your rowels while you're at it. A little bit of oil on the rowel pin will keep them spinning freely and prevent that annoying squeaking sound every time you walk.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
One of the biggest mistakes people make is putting the straps on backward so the tooled side of the leather faces the boot instead of the world. It sounds silly, but when you're focusing on the buttons, it's easy to flip the strap. Check the finish of the leather before you push it onto the button.
Another thing to watch out for is using straps that are too long. If you have a lot of "tail" left over after you buckle the strap, it can flap around and be distracting. You can trim the excess leather with a sharp pair of shears, but just make sure you're 100% happy with the fit before you start cutting. Once it's gone, it's gone!
Lastly, don't ignore a loose button. Some spurs have buttons that can actually unscrew or become loose over time. If the button feels wobbly, you might need to tighten it or replace the spur. A strap is only as good as the button it's attached to.
Wrapping It Up
Putting on spur straps isn't rocket science, but it does take a little bit of muscle and some attention to detail. Once you get the hang of it, you'll be able to swap out your work straps for your fancy show straps in just a couple of minutes. Just remember: keep the buckles on the outside, don't be afraid to soften up that new leather, and make sure everything is snug before you swing into the saddle. Your horse (and your ankles) will thank you for taking the time to get the fit just right. Now go enjoy your ride!